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Celebrating Carnival in Trinidad

When I disembarked from my flight into Trinidad’s Piarco International Airport for my first Caribbean Carnival experience, I was immediately struck by the heady scent of celebration that permeated the air.

Wading through the long lines at Customs upon my arrival, I eavesdropped on some of the conversations taking place among the crowds of international travelers whose faces lit up with childlike excitement as they recounted tales of past Carnival experiences in Trinidad. Immediately, it became apparent to me that Carnival in Trinidad was not a one-off sort of affair, but instead one that lends itself to repeat offenders.

Since I had never been to Trinidad before, I arrived a few days early to prepare for the Carnival experience, something that I highly recommend for all Carnival newbies. After all, while Carnival is indeed one gigantic party, there is a bit of preparation that travelers must do in order to enjoy the events surrounding it to the fullest.

Each year, Carnival in Trinidad has a theme and bands of revelers form as much as five to six months prior to the official kick-off in preparation to go head to head in costume competition on the big day.

If you want to participate in one of these bands, try to register in advance as places in many of the more popular bands like Poison or Hearts fill up early. And, trust me, just like in high school, you definitely want to be in the mix with a really cool, fun band.

Band registration costs between $200 and $500 (US) and generally includes the cost of an elaborate costume (usually a headdress and some sort of beaded two piece thong number for women and some sort of bikini for men), unlimited liquor and water and access to the all-important “tinkle trains”, which are mobile air-conditioned vehicles complete with toilets, powder rooms and attendants that follow each band along the parade route that leads to the judging stands, the stage and beyond on Carnival day.

To ensure that you get your costume and that the fit is just right, you’ll need to arrive in Trinidad in time to do a final fitting and make any last minute adjustments, but be prepared to wait as long lines and “island time” are generally the order of the day no matter what band you choose to join.

Just prior to Carnival, things began to kick into high gear with a series of “fêtes”, which are basically fried food laden, heterosexual Caribbean circuit parties that take place all over the island. Popular local bands play music at deafening levels, rum drinks flow freely, everybody dances and there is always a VIP section and a line of people waiting to get in.

I was told that several gay fêtes take place annually on the island as Carnival is sort of the Caribbean’s gay pride, but alas these proved more elusive than Osama Bin Laden. Gay life is still very much on the DL or “down-low” in Trinidad as it is in most of the Caribbean so navigating it can be a tricky affair. (Translation: If you’re looking for a “gay” ol’ time at Carnival, you’d better bring your binoculars and plan ahead with someone in the know.)

When the big Carnival day finally arrived, feeling somewhat daunted by the prospect of the extreme heat and fearing major sun damage as a result of the ‘barely there’ costume I had purchased, I opted to be a spectator in the stands rather than an actual participant in a band.

Aside from the admiring winks I garnered from a surprising number of scantily clad Venezuelan boys from the judging stage as a result of my choice to become an observer, sitting on the sidelines provided me with the opportunity to actually glimpse all the registered bands and their amazing costumes.

I also got the chance to witness the unifying effect of Carnival on Trinidad as people all ages, sizes and ethnicities, marched and danced together for hours and hours on end underneath the baking daytime sun and into the moonlit night. Some had so much fun, they had to be practically pushed off the stage.

The parties end early on the final night of Carnival because everyone is positively knackered from the days of build up and prep leading up to the crowning event. Given the early close, I chose to end my trip not with yet another party but with a deliciously civilized dinner of Chinese cuisine at the Kapok hotel which turned out to be one of the culinary highlights of my stay. Who would have ever thought you could find such amazing Chinese food in Trinidad?

The next morning as I rode in a taxi back to Piarco International Airport, the tingle of excitement that filled my spirit days earlier was gone, but the memory of celebration and freedom still danced whimsically in my soul. Carnival in Trinidad was one party that I couldn’t forget if I tried.

Carnival in Trinidad (www.gotrinidadandtobago.com) kicks off on February 4, 2008.

©365Gay.com 2008

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